Monday, October 15, 2007

Indian culture, poverty and other thoughts - Corrie

I have wanted to come to India for as long as I can remember....something about the colour of life and the smell of spicy food. There is an exuberance in the air here...an energy I did not feel in Africa. It is always noisy here...people honk their horns, ring their bells, and holler all the time.

Although Calcutta, a city of 16,000,000, has much poverty, I was relieved to see so much commerce, production, information technology, and infrastructure here in Calcutta. People are friendly, like in Ghana, and show deference to us, which at times, is a bit uncomfortable. For example, when I go to the internet shop, if it is full, the owner yanks someone off a computer (literally) to let me on...at the ATM machine, which is always lined up 10 people deep, when they see me come, they all step away and move me to the front of the line.

For the first few days, we were stared at mercilessly. It felt awful. I knew it was my clothes, which in India looked like the underpants women wear under their saris, and Joel's hair (which looks like - well -Joel's hair), and now I have a new appreciation for those minorities or marjinalized people who are so often gawked at.

Interestingly, like in Morocco, when I dressed Indian (I now have a lovely wardrobe of 4 saris), people stopped staring. Is there a lesson here?

The hotel workers are exceptional...always serving, always waiting to see if we need anything. I think they must think all we westerners do is eat, since we spend alot of time in the restaurant...the reason is less about food (although it is very tasty!), and more about air conditioning. It is 35-40 degrees celcius here with 90 per cent humidity...and it is the cold season!

Speaking of eating...I expected to see millions of starving people here...and beggars...and I know they are here somewhere, but I just have not seen any...in fact, I look a little malnourished here compared to most Indian women who are pleasantly plump...even with my growing tummy (too much starchy foods in Africa!).

Public transit here is the most amazing thing I have ever experienced. I thought Africa was bad. African roads are worse for sure, but that just means here in India people can drive faster...making the chaos all the more frightening. There are thousands of rickshaws and scooters which compete with large wooden busses for space on the two lane roads which almost always sport 7 lanes of vehicles. One day I saw a bus, which is built for about 50 people, carrying at least 150 - 200 people on the inside, and about 50 people on the roof. I am not kidding...on the roof...speeding down the modern road, swerving around rickshaws honking its horn.

Crossing the road is a major adventure each day as I walk to the internet shop (by the way I pay 10 rupees an hour...about 25 cents). I was quickly told the first time I attempted to cross..."don't run..otherwise the cars won't slow down and you will get run over!" There is seldom a break in the traffic, and occassionally when you finally see a small opening and step out, out of nowhere - driving down the wrong side of the road - comes a motor scooter! Or 15 bicycles....or a cow!!

Another interestng thing I have noticed is that drivers turn off their engines at every red light, or when stalled in traffic...even if only for a few seconds...needless to say the air is much more breathable than that air in Accra that stung my eyes. Is there a lesson here too? Nonetheless, the polution here is as problematic as in Africa. Garbage is everywhere, and men urinate and deficate almost anywhere they please...cows roam the streets (in Africa it was goats and chickens), and the waterways are sludgy with filth...having a condo on the water here takes on all new meaning (and you actually see billboards advertising apartments witha view of the water!).

I have been told by locals that the government and police here are all corrupt (even the traffic cops), and without money you have no hope of justice or fairness. Woman are often mistreated, and many old and barbaric traditions continue to plague them in the rural parts of India. Things are changing...slowly...with the advent of better education and information technology. Access to the internet here is good (if you have 10 rupees...many do not), and people are learning there may be better ways of doing things.

On that note, I would like to say a few things...

Joel and I have been surprised to find ourselves less and less convinced that the "western way" is the better way. I have seen people who do not know what they do not have, living healthy, content lives. I do not see the stress that is so common in the west, and I see extended families and communities pulling together to help each other. They giggle, they are hospitable and charitable. The dog-eat-dog and every man for himself ways of the west are often nonexistant.

I now see poverty and many social problems as a result of colonialism - and (yes I know, I cannot believe I am saying this - good conservative that I am) - the spreading of western culture. Change is happening too fast in the developing world, due to globalization, but most communities are not ready for it. Western societies had a couple hundred years to evolve and learn after we broke free from colonialism...Africans and Indians have had only decades...and western cultural hegemony is not helping them evolve and create made-a -home solutions and innovations...this in itself creates another set of problems...creating dependance.

Tourism in Kenya has grown so much...western tourists bring pencils and notebooks to hand out to underpriveleged children...this placates their own sense of guilt, allows them to think they are helping, and the children learn to expect handouts...they stand on the side of the road and beg, and if you do not give them anything, they give you the finger.

One day in Ghana, while walking to the village with 4 young local men, one of them asked, "Tell me, Mama, is it true families in the west do not stay together?" I explained how our society lives, and how for many people extended family is not as important. This was hard for them to imagine, since their extended families all live together in family compounds. I remarked that I was shocked to see no homeless people in Ghana. The young man answered, "Mama, that is because we all have a village to go to if we cannot make it in the city. We always have a home to go to." I will add here that I also believe that the fact that noone in Ghana seems to smoke, drink or do drugs (due to the huge evangelical christian influence) is also a big reason there is no homelss population...an example of western cultural hegemony that has had a good effect.

India does have homeless. Masses of people who live on the streets in shanty structures...made of cardboard or plastic. Largly ignored by a corrupt government...plagued by natural calamity with yearlt floods. I dared not go to these parts of town...there is too much devastation and I knew my heart would not handle it...but I saw signs of it when we were driving to see Queen Victoria's spacious palace...even small children, as young as 3...living alone on the street...eating from garbage piles where cows stop to rest.

Last night Joel and I talked about the poverty...and he said, like I have often heard my boyfriend Stephane say, well, if every year the place floods...why don't they just move!

Well folks...for millions of Indians, particularily in the province of West Bengal, the five rupees it takes to get on a public bus is beyond their means. They scape together a few rupees each day...enough to feed their children...never enough to better their lives. Certainly not enough to move...education may be the key...enabling people to start businesses...micro finance schemes and more sustainable agriculture techniques...these things will all help - but...just try learning with an empty tummy.

Take care...we love you all and really look forward to reading your posts.

3 comments:

Bruce said...

Hi Crew: Can't say enough of this education we are getting...guess one has to see to believe. Education is key, may not solve the poverty problem, but wow they should learn a bit more about birth control. Cannot imagine what it's like to function in such overcrowdedness.. Too bad the ruling gov'ts are so corrupt. Dad

Bruce said...

Hi Crew: Can't say enough of this education we are getting...guess one has to see to believe. Education is key, may not solve the poverty problem, but wow they should learn a bit more about birth control. Cannot imagine what it's like to function in such overcrowdedness.. Too bad the ruling gov'ts are so corrupt. Dad

Unknown said...

I bet riding with your big sis or on the streets of our cities will be a peice of cake for you after this trip to India. Tammy